![]() I gave my trans to a repair shop (stopped moving). I’d have even been able to move over the JD kill switch. Except for tapping the mount hole and removing the kill switch. This would have saved doing the external mods. Nor was I comfortable with messing with the interior. I didn’t care for opening a new transaxle and replacing the costly specialty oil. Also the axles are supposed to be the same size and tooth arrangement internally. You should then be able to switch the direction of the drive internally. The other option is to crack open both transaxles. It’s pretty minor but takes a bit of work to go higher than 3.5 inches. The only annoyance is it is more difficult to raise and lower the deck. Finally I filed the edges to round them off. To make centering your drill bit easier I used the angle grinder to notch it. I also shortened the keeper pin and drilled a new hole for the cotter pin. I cut a notch out of the tube of the lever to allow it to sit closer to the frame with a right angle grinder. ![]() The left wheel now rubs against the deck height adjustment lever. I had to shorten the spacers between the transaxle and rims. I just moved over the JD pulley and placed them in the correct order. Thankfully the shaft size and keying is the same. The K57R came with a large diameter pulley and the pulley/fan order was reversed. I didn’t have this issue as I was careful. When tapping or finally mounting the frame mount. I practiced on some scrap aluminum first. Tapping was easy as the block is aluminum. You’ll also need a tap handle if you don’t have one. So I got the 5/16”-18NC Tap, 17/64 drill bit (which I ended up not needing) and a matching 5/16 bolt to replace the metric one. Thankfully a 5/16”-18NC is nearly identical. The original JD screw is metric but the hardware store didn’t have a metric tap in the size I needed. Which is needed for mounting one of the frame mount bars. While they placed a mount hole in the new transaxle. Heated it with a torch and bent it where it contacted the deck belt. The drive pedal linkage now rubbed against the drive belts for the mower deck. Then I flipped and rotated the drive lever to face down and out to clear the transaxle housing. ![]() I had to remove the inner pin with a 5/32 punch and the outer pin with a 3/16 punch. I don’t know the technical names for these pins. I don’t have any use for it.I just removed it. There are a few key differences between the original transmission and the Huqvarna K57 Assembly and disassembly is nearly identical to the original transaxle. Anyways, I’m just going over the mods I made not full detail of assembly and disassembly. It’s not worth it since I rarely leave home now in summer. The service is $1000 a season, unlimited plows. I bought an Areins two stage four years ago but used a service for the last three. Then with the added hassle of attaching it’s not worth it in my case. The attachment for mine would be $1500 just for the unit, then extra for weights and chains. I haven’t heard anyone pleased with the snow blowing equipment. My biggest complaint was tearing the turf on turns and destroying turf and exposing tree roots as they spun around them at warp speed. Zero-turn mowers are a mowing company’s dream but a nightmare for the customer if they don’t know how to operate it. I was paying $50 week for one property (not huge but way < 4 acres) and the problem was the poor cut quality. If I could get 4 acres mowed for $35 ? and happy with the quality I‘d pay it.
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